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| Local beverage |
The Lao customs was well organized chaos. I had an (expensive!) eVisa, so dodged the first queue and got myself stamped into the country. I handed my bike documents to the same guy who stamped my passport and he just looked confused and waved me through. Can't be that simple?!!
It wasn't. Some of the group were outside by a line of tables selling SIM cards and changing money. I asked if they'd got a "Temporary Import Permit" (TIP) for their bikes. No. I asked the guy selling SIM cards and the moneychangers (all of whom spoke/were Chinese). I also changed some money at the same time becoming millionaire as the exchange rate was about £1 = 25,000 KIP.
I was pointed to a building where I found other members of the group at automated machines putting their bike information in. A grumpy attendant in the office was losing his patience with us when the machine wouldn't accept some of the information offered; he started putting in random numbers, just to get to the next screen. Then a sticker was spewed out of the machine with my bike details on it and a QR code. Then to another office where I acquired another mystery bit of paper with an official looking stamp on it.
I think that was it; so most of the group reconvened and we set off into Laos. A final checkpoint where they wanted to make sure we had the sticker/QR code thing. They only checked the first couple and then waved the rest of us through.
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| Gerald's birthday |
Everyone, minus the 2 couples then followed Nikolay to Luang Namtha where we had booked the first nights accommodation as it wasn't too far from the border.
It was slow going as we took a wrong turn and were sent back. The roads were also in a terrible state: broken tarmac, potholes, mud, dust, gravel, sand and Chinese trucks. Came as a bit of a shock after the nice roads in China.
We finally made it to the small, sleepy town and headed out for food and beer. It was Gerald's birthday and a few of us spent the afternoon and into the evening drinking and listening to Olli philosophising!
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| Leaving Luang Namtha |
Most of the others spent 2 or 3 days in Luang Namtha, but I wanted to get deeper into Laos. Heading out on the atrocious roads and through the gorgeous scenery bound for Nong Khiaw.
It was a very slow, dusty ride along the twisty mountain roads. I'd ridden this road back in 2012 and don't remember it being in such a bad state.
It did improve a little after Muang Xai, and the views were spectacular.
Stopping for a break, I heard rustling in the bushes by the road. A local farmer appeared with a stack of bamboo and a rifle. He introduced himself in very good English and proudly pointed to his land saying he raised buffalo. I was more focused on the gun.
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| Great views, shit roads |
Many hours after setting off, I pulled into the extremely picturesque riverside town of Nong Khiaw. Very small and relaxed town where I stayed a couple of nights to get my breath back after the race through China. Did nothing much at all. Nice and relaxing.
So, a few days playing the tourist and making plans for the next phase of the ride.
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| Which way next......? |
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| Sunset from Phousi hill |
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| Night Market |
I did make it out to the Kuang Si waterfall, which I first visited umpteen years ago on a rented scooter (one of my earliest biking experiences). The road was predictably shite, but a fun ride out none the less.
Last time, as my ailing memory informs me, I parked up by the waterfall and strolled over to see the cascade. Now, the car park is a few Kms short of the waterfall where you pay an entrance ticket and get on an electric bus to take you up to the last few Kms to the site. Obviously been taking lessons from the Chinese... monetize, monetize, monetize!!
Bumped into Martyn and Ali at the falls. I chose to take the steep, slippery path to the top, they sensibly didn't! Overgrown and under-maintained with the water level too high to get close to the edge.
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| Kuang Si waterfall |
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| Old mile marker |
Soundtrack: "Pneuma" - Tool
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