Time

Onward. Struck out west today aiming to reach Kyzyl-Oy. New, pristine tarmac at first but that soon degenerated into mile after mile after mile of road building. The philosophy seems to be rather than mend the road section by section, they rip up the whole thing in one go and then work on a tiny bit to re-pave it. Still, it was another nice day and the traffic was light.

The tarmac returned and was perfect as far as Aral/Apan where I turned north on a corrugated, sandy track. Don't like corrugations! Too slow and it's a juddering, bone shaking torment, too fast and you risk washing out on the frequent patches of soft sand. Again, great fun on a light dirt bike, but hard work on a heavily loaded tourer! 

The "main road"

I reached the tiny village of Kyzyl-Oy by lunchtime. Too early to stop, so back on the corrugations. At least the track ran alongside a picturesque river. It eventually rejoined the main Osh-Bishkek highway which snaked up the mountains and through an incredibly noisy tunnel as it meandered towards the capital. Again, rode this road before on the 2012 trip; this section (at least) was much as it was 11 years ago.

I have overestimated the amount of time needed for Kyrgyzstan. Already seen most of what I wanted to see; and it's a while before we are due to enter China. Not to labour the point, but Kyrgyz (non-paved) roads are best ridden on a light dirt bike. The CRF 250 would've been perfect. The T7 is the right bike for the trip overall, but more could be explored in Kyrgyzstan on the 250.

Back on the main road....finally!

Back in Bishkek for a couple of days killing time and doing the tourist sights. Went to a couple of museums with the best intentions, only to get bored 20 minutes in. I'm such a pleb! Wandered the streets, went for a curry (twice!) and sat in a few bars waiting to get back on the road.

Ministry of silly walks......

Kilometer zero.

The day to set off dawned; I briefly contemplated staying an extra night in Bishkek, as the weather looked bad. But the itchy feet overruled the brain and I loaded up and headed off. Back up the high mountain pass and through the tunnel (mysteriously noise free this time?!).

The tunnel.

The weather began to look ominous and I stopped to put on my "cold-killer" under-gloves. The rain fell as the road climbed again, reaching the snow line. The sudden cold was unexpected, my hands losing all sensation. I honestly thought that frostbite was a real danger. Stopping several times to try and restore some feeling, I could just about make out the stark beauty of the landscape through the stinging rain. Not a place to break-down. Finally the road started to descend, the hills changing from white to green. My fingers began to thaw out and the sky began to clear. The descent followed a narrow valley alongside a river down to Lake Toktogul and an end to the days riding.

The cold was unreal.

Only me at the hostel.

A few of the China group were already in Osh, so that was my destination the next day. Mercifully dry, clear and increasingly warm as the road dropped down from the mountains.

Toktogul Lake

Blue skies; what a difference a day makes!

Soundtrack: "Time" - Pink Floyd.

Deja vu, again.

The plan for today was to take the dirt road (the only option) up to Song-Kul Lake, but the weather had other ideas. When the elderly Kyrgyz father of the guesthouse owner heard my plan, he grimaced and shook his head while pointing at the sky. Er, OK then, maybe save that for another day. So I headed south past the turn off for Song-Kul,  swerved around a few angry dogs (why do dogs hate motorbikes so much??) before rolling into Naryn a couple of hours or so later as the skies cleared (albeit briefly).

Scottish weather.

The turn off to Song-Kul. Not today.

Some blue sky briefly appears.

Naryn.

This was the gateway to the Chinese border at Torugart the last time I attempted this trip. I remember it being quite a grim, dusty place with only one (terrible) hotel. It's quite nice now, lots of decent accommodation options and a few cafes selling good food. At least, I thought it was good........it may have been the pizza from the previous night, or the local dumplings (possibly horsemeat?) I had for lunch: but, I'll spare you the gory details. For the next 30 odd hours, I needed to be within reach of a toilet with very little notice. I did venture as far as a local pharmacy and, armed with Google translate, was given some mystery medicine (turned out to be antibiotics and some anti-spasm thing to deal with the stomach cramps). So, a lost day staring through the window at the clear blue skies. Couldn't even distract myself with the interweb as the guesthouse had no electricity (power cuts). 

Medicine, courtesy of Google translate.

I was still not great the next day, but I HAD to get out on the bike (another blue sky day). Headed for Tash Rabat, the old Silk Road Caravanserai near the Chinese border where the group met up last time. Good roads, fantastic scenery and clear skies. Felt good. 

Tash Rabat itself is very isolated down another dirt road and up a narrow valley. No one else about when I arrived, but a few local tourists turned up before long. The things this place must have seen and the stories it could tell.............!

Back on the road. 

Tash Rabat.

The road to Tash Rabat.

The next day, it was time to get moving again. Despite a mixed forecast and a still delicate stomach, I decided to make for Song-Kul Lake. The dirt track up there was challenging for a heavy loaded bike for someone of my limited off road skills. Lots of switchbacks and loose rocks, but very dramatic. I made it to the top with some "weather" hovering over the lake. I was going to stay in one of the Yurt camps by the lake; but I'd got there quite early and wanted to keep riding. I am covering more ground each day than I had planned on, but it IS a bike trip after all. 

Fortunately, the gate was unlocked.

Highest point 3346 metres.

Weather closing in.

I thought the track was headed east towards the lighter skies, but it meandered it's way towards the brooding clouds as lightning streaked across the sky and the rain began to fall. Nowhere to go but forward. Can't be far to the edge of the high plateau and the descent, surely? The thunder crashed around me as the rain decided to have a rest and give the hail a go. Nice. I reached the track down, but it had decided to identify as a stream now. As I lost altitude, the "Scottish weather" decided to give up the chase and the sun reappeared. 

Song-Kul Lake

The road/stream. At least I'm clear of the weather.

Once clear of the storm, it was a beautiful ride down the valley back to the asphalt and then north back to Kochkor for the night. Tough days ride, challenging but ultimately enjoyable. These dirt roads would be more fun on my CRF250 (unburdened by luggage!!), but the T7 proved it is more than capable on these surfaces. Great bike!

Back on the surfaced road. Long day.....

Soundtrack: "Magnu" - Hawkwind

Road trip!

The day finally arrived when the bike had landed and was ready to be liberated from the vice like grip of customs. I was picked up by Bekzhan, the clearance agent and a quick detour to get some petrol, as the bikes tank had to be completely drained before the airline would accept it. 

Arrived at the freight area of the airport: then the merry dance of endless paperwork to be handed in to endless officials began.

Sat in the warehouse were dozens of pallets holding what I was told were "bullets for Russia......probably!". A somewhat sobering sight. I was explicitly told "no photos". Some people are getting very rich off the back of this war.

Anyway; lots of waiting and following the agent around like a lost puppy followed. The crate containing the bike appeared briefly before disappearing again as the paperwork roundabout continued. After being there most of the day, the bike was finally released. Several curious freight workers set about the crate and the T7 emerged blinking into the late afternoon sun. A couple of the uncraters jumped on the bike for a photo shoot (fine with me, they'd helped me without even being asked). I had little idea of what they were saying to each other, but I gathered that the bike looked like something from "Terminator". The T7 hasn't stopped smiling since!

I plugged in the new battery and the bike fired up at the first time of asking.......an encouraging sign 

Bezkhan, the V Freight representative who did all the work. 

First day of the ride proper. Still have that insidious guilty feeling that I am cheating by starting in Kyrgyzstan and not riding here. I'm sure that will fade as the miles roll by .

Escaped Bishkek after a few wrong turns and headed east (the best direction!). Quick detour to see the Burana tower and then on to Lake Issy-Kul; again been this way before, but things have changed. Bigger roads and more traffic.

The bike needed a drink, as would I by days end.

Burana Tower

I tried to stop for the day in Cholpan-Ata on the northern shore of the lake. BUT, I couldn't find either of the hotels I had waymarked on the GPS. Of the few hotels I could find, they were either full or eye wateringly expensive. Being a dab hand at "cutting off my nose to spite my face" I decided to carry on another 100 miles to Karakol on the worsening roads and gradually fading light. Not my brightest idea! Eventually made it and stumbled upon a very good hostel (Duet), where a couple or 3 cold beers soothed the spirit.

There was also a Japanese plated T7 at the hostel, but like Bishkek, no sign of the owner!?

The next day, I headed along the southern edge of the lake with a detour up a valley to see a waterfall (got to tick them tourist boxes as well). Back on the road proper and a lot of roadworks, obviously upgrading the route but for now, it was in better condition 11 years ago.

After filling the bike with fuel, I calculated (possibly wrongly) that the full 27 litre capacity would yield about a 500 mile range (ridden conservatively),  very encouraging!

Dirt road, typical of Kyrgyzstan.

The waterfall valley.

The weather turned out to be better than forecast today. A few spots of rain with just enough cloud to give some gorgeous skies. Combined with the fantastic mountain and lake scenery, it was a great days riding (apart from the roadworks!).

Great skies!

New tarmac and no traffic, my favourite!

Kochkor, a dusty one horse town. My guesthouse was the white building on the right.

Ended the day in Kochkor, small place with not much happening, but a convenient staging post. Weirdly, most of the guesthouses/homestays have no signage to indicate what or where they are. Even if you have the exact coordinates, you are often met with locked gates and no sign of life. I am trying not to book ahead on this trip as I like the freedom to choose my destination as each day progresses and not be tied to the "I must make it to "X" tonight!" That will all change when I get to China.

Soundtrack: "Long Distance Runaround" - Yes