Xinjiang, China

Finally entering China; but we were in for a long day of endless police checkpoints and hours of waiting. As I recall from last time (from the Torugart border in 2012), we rode to a big facility well into China where ourselves and the bikes cleared customs and were stamped into the country, not quick, but efficient. This time, we were stamped into the country near the actual border, had our bikes X-rayed then rode behind the van, provided by the tour company, for a few hours to the automobile clearance area. Here we waited 3 hours or so for some mystery bit of paper allowing us to continue. At one point, a random official wandered by, looked at us confused and asked if we needed any help. He got on his phone and soon after, the mystery paperwork was granted and we carried on to Kashgar. More police checkpoints slowed us further, arriving at the hotel well after dark.

X-Ray

Finally on the move

And the waiting continues.....

16 hours of riding and waiting and waiting and waiting. We hadn't eaten for most of the day and were tired and frazzled. Time for food and, more importantly, beer! The local brew was "Wusu" and it was drunk greedily.

Wusu time

The next day dawned at a random time as my phone hadn't automatically updated to the current timezone (Beijing time, the official time was a couple of hours ahead of the local time and I was still on Kyrgyz time, confusing things further). I awoke to the sound of the guide banging on my door as we had to get to a police compound to have our bike VIN numbers checked and for a road worthiness assessment. We initially were led to the wrong police station and had to backtrack.

There was talk that there may also be a driving lesson, "OK", I said, "What would you like us to teach you?" 

They didn't like that my bike showed MPH instead of KPH. But, we all passed and were free to go. Afternoon was free to explore. I bought a Chinese mobile phone as I didn't want to be without my UK number. Chinese navigation (Amap),  communication (WeChat) and payment (Alipay) apps were installed to make things easier. Having a Chinese phone, no doubt I am being spied on relentlessly by the authorities....."China is wonderful and everything is perfect (please don't shoot me!)"

Police checking the bikes 

Yes, the police confirmed they are motorbikes!

With all the formalities and paperwork completed, the next day was free. A few people did bike maintenance. I did my rear brake pads as they were paper thin after only 6000ish miles. Nigel had ordered a new fuel pump via the China guide (Jah) and Gerald helped JB with his fuel filter (black with dirt). After this, I had a wander around the old and new cities of Kashgar. Good place. And the rumours I went to Pizza Hut are untrue (mostly).

Before the tourist hordes descended.

Id Kah Mosque

Qinibagh hotel, posher than last time.

Nigel hard at work

Gerald and JB

Local artisan

Ready for the off

Chinese numberplate and driving licence 

As some of us sat having a couple of beers in the evening, a Chinese internet channel film crew appeared and asked us about our trip and did a bit of filming. They also came to the hotel the next morning to film us as we set off. Jah gave us a pre departure speech (obviously aimed mostly at the camera): he stressed how me must respect and obey Chinese laws. Lips were bitten as we tried to restrain our laughter as the day before he was bemoaning the unfairness of the toll roads in China and how we should try not to pay!!

Soundtrack: "Totally Wired" - The Fall