Time

Onward. Struck out west today aiming to reach Kyzyl-Oy. New, pristine tarmac at first but that soon degenerated into mile after mile after mile of road building. The philosophy seems to be rather than mend the road section by section, they rip up the whole thing in one go and then work on a tiny bit to re-pave it. Still, it was another nice day and the traffic was light.

The tarmac returned and was perfect as far as Aral/Apan where I turned north on a corrugated, sandy track. Don't like corrugations! Too slow and it's a juddering, bone shaking torment, too fast and you risk washing out on the frequent patches of soft sand. Again, great fun on a light dirt bike, but hard work on a heavily loaded tourer! 

The "main road"

I reached the tiny village of Kyzyl-Oy by lunchtime. Too early to stop, so back on the corrugations. At least the track ran alongside a picturesque river. It eventually rejoined the main Osh-Bishkek highway which snaked up the mountains and through an incredibly noisy tunnel as it meandered towards the capital. Again, rode this road before on the 2012 trip; this section (at least) was much as it was 11 years ago.

I have overestimated the amount of time needed for Kyrgyzstan. Already seen most of what I wanted to see; and it's a while before we are due to enter China. Not to labour the point, but Kyrgyz (non-paved) roads are best ridden on a light dirt bike. The CRF 250 would've been perfect. The T7 is the right bike for the trip overall, but more could be explored in Kyrgyzstan on the 250.

Back on the main road....finally!

Back in Bishkek for a couple of days killing time and doing the tourist sights. Went to a couple of museums with the best intentions, only to get bored 20 minutes in. I'm such a pleb! Wandered the streets, went for a curry (twice!) and sat in a few bars waiting to get back on the road.

Ministry of silly walks......

Kilometer zero.

The day to set off dawned; I briefly contemplated staying an extra night in Bishkek, as the weather looked bad. But the itchy feet overruled the brain and I loaded up and headed off. Back up the high mountain pass and through the tunnel (mysteriously noise free this time?!).

The tunnel.

The weather began to look ominous and I stopped to put on my "cold-killer" under-gloves. The rain fell as the road climbed again, reaching the snow line. The sudden cold was unexpected, my hands losing all sensation. I honestly thought that frostbite was a real danger. Stopping several times to try and restore some feeling, I could just about make out the stark beauty of the landscape through the stinging rain. Not a place to break-down. Finally the road started to descend, the hills changing from white to green. My fingers began to thaw out and the sky began to clear. The descent followed a narrow valley alongside a river down to Lake Toktogul and an end to the days riding.

The cold was unreal.

Only me at the hostel.

A few of the China group were already in Osh, so that was my destination the next day. Mercifully dry, clear and increasingly warm as the road dropped down from the mountains.

Toktogul Lake

Blue skies; what a difference a day makes!

Soundtrack: "Time" - Pink Floyd.