Deja vu, again.

The plan for today was to take the dirt road (the only option) up to Song-Kul Lake, but the weather had other ideas. When the elderly Kyrgyz father of the guesthouse owner heard my plan, he grimaced and shook his head while pointing at the sky. Er, OK then, maybe save that for another day. So I headed south past the turn off for Song-Kul,  swerved around a few angry dogs (why do dogs hate motorbikes so much??) before rolling into Naryn a couple of hours or so later as the skies cleared (albeit briefly).

Scottish weather.

The turn off to Song-Kul. Not today.

Some blue sky briefly appears.

Naryn.

This was the gateway to the Chinese border at Torugart the last time I attempted this trip. I remember it being quite a grim, dusty place with only one (terrible) hotel. It's quite nice now, lots of decent accommodation options and a few cafes selling good food. At least, I thought it was good........it may have been the pizza from the previous night, or the local dumplings (possibly horsemeat?) I had for lunch: but, I'll spare you the gory details. For the next 30 odd hours, I needed to be within reach of a toilet with very little notice. I did venture as far as a local pharmacy and, armed with Google translate, was given some mystery medicine (turned out to be antibiotics and some anti-spasm thing to deal with the stomach cramps). So, a lost day staring through the window at the clear blue skies. Couldn't even distract myself with the interweb as the guesthouse had no electricity (power cuts). 

Medicine, courtesy of Google translate.

I was still not great the next day, but I HAD to get out on the bike (another blue sky day). Headed for Tash Rabat, the old Silk Road Caravanserai near the Chinese border where the group met up last time. Good roads, fantastic scenery and clear skies. Felt good. 

Tash Rabat itself is very isolated down another dirt road and up a narrow valley. No one else about when I arrived, but a few local tourists turned up before long. The things this place must have seen and the stories it could tell.............!

Back on the road. 

Tash Rabat.

The road to Tash Rabat.

The next day, it was time to get moving again. Despite a mixed forecast and a still delicate stomach, I decided to make for Song-Kul Lake. The dirt track up there was challenging for a heavy loaded bike for someone of my limited off road skills. Lots of switchbacks and loose rocks, but very dramatic. I made it to the top with some "weather" hovering over the lake. I was going to stay in one of the Yurt camps by the lake; but I'd got there quite early and wanted to keep riding. I am covering more ground each day than I had planned on, but it IS a bike trip after all. 

Fortunately, the gate was unlocked.

Highest point 3346 metres.

Weather closing in.

I thought the track was headed east towards the lighter skies, but it meandered it's way towards the brooding clouds as lightning streaked across the sky and the rain began to fall. Nowhere to go but forward. Can't be far to the edge of the high plateau and the descent, surely? The thunder crashed around me as the rain decided to have a rest and give the hail a go. Nice. I reached the track down, but it had decided to identify as a stream now. As I lost altitude, the "Scottish weather" decided to give up the chase and the sun reappeared. 

Song-Kul Lake

The road/stream. At least I'm clear of the weather.

Once clear of the storm, it was a beautiful ride down the valley back to the asphalt and then north back to Kochkor for the night. Tough days ride, challenging but ultimately enjoyable. These dirt roads would be more fun on my CRF250 (unburdened by luggage!!), but the T7 proved it is more than capable on these surfaces. Great bike!

Back on the surfaced road. Long day.....

Soundtrack: "Magnu" - Hawkwind