Friday, September 1, 2023

Road trip!

The day finally arrived when the bike had landed and was ready to be liberated from the vice like grip of customs. I was picked up by Bekzhan, the clearance agent and a quick detour to get some petrol, as the bikes tank had to be completely drained before the airline would accept it. 

Arrived at the freight area of the airport: then the merry dance of endless paperwork to be handed in to endless officials began.

Sat in the warehouse were dozens of pallets holding what I was told were "bullets for Russia......probably!". A somewhat sobering sight. I was explicitly told "no photos". Some people are getting very rich off the back of this war.

Anyway; lots of waiting and following the agent around like a lost puppy followed. The crate containing the bike appeared briefly before disappearing again as the paperwork roundabout continued. After being there most of the day, the bike was finally released. Several curious freight workers set about the crate and the T7 emerged blinking into the late afternoon sun. A couple of the uncraters jumped on the bike for a photo shoot (fine with me, they'd helped me without even being asked). I had little idea of what they were saying to each other, but I gathered that the bike looked like something from "Terminator". The T7 hasn't stopped smiling since!

I plugged in the new battery and the bike fired up at the first time of asking.......an encouraging sign 

Bezkhan, the V Freight representative who did all the work. 

First day of the ride proper. Still have that insidious guilty feeling that I am cheating by starting in Kyrgyzstan and not riding here. I'm sure that will fade as the miles roll by .
Escaped Bishkek after a few wrong turns and headed east (the best direction!). Quick detour to see the Burana tower and then on to Lake Issy-Kul; again been this way before, but things have changed. Bigger roads and more traffic.

The bike needed a drink, as would I by days end.

Burana Tower

I tried to stop for the day in Cholpan-Ata on the northern shore of the lake. BUT, I couldn't find either of the hotels I had waymarked on the GPS. Of the few hotels I could find, they were either full or eye wateringly expensive. Being a dab hand at "cutting off my nose to spite my face" I decided to carry on another 100 miles to Karakol on the worsening roads and gradually fading light. Not my brightest idea! Eventually made it and stumbled upon a very good hostel (Duet), where a couple or 3 cold beers soothed the spirit.
There was also a Japanese plated T7 at the hostel, but like Bishkek, no sign of the owner!?

The next day, I headed along the southern edge of the lake with a detour up a valley to see a waterfall (got to tick them tourist boxes as well). Back on the road proper and a lot of roadworks, obviously upgrading the route but for now, it was in better condition 11 years ago.




After filling the bike with fuel, I calculated (possibly wrongly) that the full 27 litre capacity would yield about a 500 mile range (ridden conservatively),  very encouraging!

Dirt road, typical of Kyrgyzstan.

The waterfall valley.


The weather turned out to be better than forecast today. A few spots of rain with just enough cloud to give some gorgeous skies. Combined with the fantastic mountain and lake scenery, it was a great days riding (apart from the roadworks!).

Great skies!

New tarmac and no traffic, my favourite!

Kochkor, a dusty one horse town. My guesthouse was the white building on the right.

Ended the day in Kochkor, small place with not much happening, but a convenient staging post. Weirdly, most of the guesthouses/homestays have no signage to indicate what or where they are. Even if you have the exact coordinates, you are often met with locked gates and no sign of life. I am trying not to book ahead on this trip as I like the freedom to choose my destination as each day progresses and not be tied to the "I must make it to "X" tonight!" That will all change when I get to China.

Soundtrack: "Long Distance Runaround" - Yes

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